A Summer of Surf
A Summer of Surf
Like so many things in life, once we open ourselves to any experience that connects with the expression of natural creation on any level, both creation and ourselves thereby benefit. For after all, it is the world upon which we live, move, and have our being. And that creation also is a living, moving, being reality, too; though many often forget that simple and obvious fact. Creation is alive. You can see it in the rocks, trees, water, and air. And connecting with these elements of the physical world also connects us with the spiritual aspects of these corporeal expressions of life. For all connections are of spirit. Eye to eye; heart to heart; soul to soul. It can be seen in the countless photographs put up online by myself. Life that lives and expresses itself…found in every aspect of our world.
It is a remarkable and yet, fundamentally a great truth. All that is, lives. We are just components or biospheres with a greater degree of expression than that of say, a house plant or potato. And as each kingdom of reality has its life expressions that are culminations of that kingdom, these life expressions are also made up of smaller and often, more vital subcomponents that are just alive and just as conscious and the greater being of whom their living presence stands behind as the higher consciousness.
We call these component features elemental kingdoms. These kingdoms are the aspects of creation necessary in providing the primary building blocks so that higher life forms can exist. These elemental kingdoms are primarily controlled and are guided by an angelic class of beings and are on a different life path than their corresponding life forms of which their lives provide a vehicle and avenue of expression. Simply put, these five basic elements make up all that is visible in our world. We are composites of minerals, salts, water, air, and the fire of spirit. These elements are the very much alive building blocks of our bodies, whether we are human, animal, plant, and so on.
Once we understand this, we can then better understand the how and why and way in which our bodies behave as they do. Because the elements of our bodies are very conscious things, in tune with other conscious aspects of their own elemental class. These elements are profoundly primal in their consciousness, in that they have basic elemental programs which determine how they function, grow, interact with other elements, while also maintaining the electromagnetic pathways—we call that aspect the etheric—so that their combined expressions can also be vessels for feeling, thought, and soul.
The elemental has one singular primary goal in its conscious existence: to be of use. To be used by higher life forms. It’s quite fascinating that when one is able to communicate with these kingdoms, that they always are yearning for greater life usefulness. That is their spiritual goal and reason for being. It’s what makes them complete, satisfied, and whole. A water elemental is thrilled beyond belief when it sees that a deer may drink of it from a stream and be taken into this higher life form. It’s a kind of spiritual attainment for the elemental. Or the air when it brushes against the cheek of a face that needs relief, or into the lungs of a child as it breathes. All these aspects are part of the wholism that is one of life’s laws. All of creation is of use to all other aspects. When humanity learns what its use is in the world, the planet as a whole will take a giant leap forward in its spiritual awakening and growth.
Of all the purposes that matter in life, connecting or relating to spirit—regardless of the spiritual stature or beingness of that expression or form—has for it the greatest benefits to all parties concerned. How many times has someone taken a trip into nature and thereby became a naturalist? Though they may not be able to quantify it verbally, a deep connection is made that transcends the varying pretenses of our modern world.
And so it was that summer was appearing on the horizon and for myself and my sons, what do to with our time? Especially given our rather poor condition and inability to function outside of that poverty in a metropolis where even a simple family outing of going to the movies was $125.00 for the five of us. So, as April became May, I asked Matt what he wanted for his birthday (the 11th) and his answer was quick and to the point: “a wet suit.”
His swift answer was wonderful in every way. Not video games, or cool clothes, or teenage debris of any kind. He wanted something that would put him in the ocean for extended periods of time. With that began our journey of surfing the cool waters of Ventura county, just north of Los Angeles. One after another, getting used equipment and wet suits on sale and trying to get equipage as inexpensively as possible, we slowly amassed enough gear to get all of us out in the waves, though only two or three at a time.
In our increasingly fun adventure, we were no longer five cramped souls in a tiny 2 bedroom condo. But a unified family experiencing stoke and making deep and long-lasting connections with the spirits of the water, those spriteful elements of nature that compromise the most powerful force on earth. Each and every week, as gas money became available, we scrimped on nothing, to make sure we could afford the $50.00 a trip in gas to get to either Emmawood, Summer, Surfer’s Point, Solimar, or Mondo beaches.
And every trip proved amazingly wonderful in the gaiety, joy, and always remembered experiences of playing with the ocean, breathing with the sea, and becoming one with the great vastness of that whole ‘nother world that covers 7/10ths of the planet.
VARIOUS EXPERIENCES OVER THE SUMMER WHILE SURFING
Was on a body board and was flying toward the shore on one of those amazing rides where wave after wave picks up where the previous one left off—exhilarating to say the least and very rare—and was so happy to have such a bodacious ride that I let a cry of glee and to my amazement, found thousands of smiling faces of water angels all looking at me from the thrashing white break of the waves. Looking each way down the beach, in both directions, there were these endless faces all splashing their joy at my joy. As the ride neared its end, all of a sudden, all the foam just started rising up from the surf and swirled all around my face and body, with me getting several dozen angel kisses in the process. Totally awesome.
Was out on a board one day and found my self alone, save for another woman on a board. We were both paddling out to get behind the waves. No one else in either direction for a few miles. All of a sudden, right in front of us, a pod of dolphins appeared; about 20 or so. Splashing and playing and being what they are. Laughed and enjoyed. Did a set and came in for a rest. Then, after some chill time, headed back out to the surf. Dolphins returned.
Was talking with a new acquaintance and mentioned that very often, dolphins show up at the beach. At that exact moment, just 50 feet from where we were sitting a HUGE dolphin jumped up into the air and splashed down. Then did it again. What made it more amazing was that dolphins at this particular break (Mondo Beach) rarely come inside the breakers. They almost always stay outside the swell areas; that day was a rare exception. Very rare. Like never.
Witnessed countless events of miraculous saves from disaster. Countless. How many times did I see people slam into each other, their boards flying missiles of doom, only to see not a scratch or dent in the fender? How many times did I see flashes of light out on the waves, protecting those souls from a trip to the hospital or worse? Too many to recount.
Was out surfing with Matt, an instructor with Surfclass, and we both wiped out at the same time. As I came up, here was his board flying like a missile straight for my face. At the last moment, it veered away. I could clearly see a hand pushing the board off before it hit me. That was close.
Chipper Bro and I were watching the boys surfing (he runs a surf school and is one of the nicest people on this planet.) Nick wipes out and his board comes right down on his head like a swinging scythe. Certain decapitation. We both look on in shock, thinking the same thing: he’s dead. Then Nick pops up like nothing happened. Chipper says, “That guy has got divine protection.” Indeed…
All of us somehow managed to avoid catastrophe this summer. Sure we got dents and dings, but that goes with playing with several thousand tons of crashing water with rocky undertows. But, as you get more experienced, that tends to happen less and less.
Wonderful to see so many women surfers these days. Twenty years ago, nothing. All just beach bunnies sitting on their back sides. Nowadays, often as not, the person next to you in a lineup is a woman: looking great—not sour and covered in goo and stuff. Clean, healthy and vibrant. Oh yeah!
I contend that ballerinas would make the most skillful surfers. Think about it, they already have perfect balance and poise.
Made a specific point of making a connection each beach visit with the water, the air, Our Father, or people, if they would let me.
Countless times we’d come to some break on some beach in Ventura and this year, the beach seemed mostly overcast. And, as son Nathan once said, “Can’t you talk to your friends and get us some sun today?” Sure. Usually, within five to ten minutes, the clouds would part and right on our section of beach and breaks, the sun was shining. All up and down the rest of the coast? Overcast and cloudy. Just as we would pack up to leave, the clouds would come back. Thank you! (It helps to ask and if people would just try it sometime, they would probably get the same results. FYI.)
Had some ugly experiences with folks that were hateful and mean-spirited. The shadow hates the light that causes its existence to be, it would appear.
It was always the ride, the wipeout, the bandying about in the water for us and many others. Some people went out with attitude: happily a minority. Most went just for the wonder of being there: There is a rule in surfing and there is only one rule and it is this: The best surfer at any break is the one having the most fun!
One of the great things about surfing as a sport is several things:
Surfers are always smiling. Unlike so many sports which are all competition and rivalry and doing in the other guy so you can succeed, surfing is about connection, first and foremost. And the losers in other sports? Depressed and complaining. The winners, gloating over the other’s loss. What terrible mindsets to have in your mental body. If you aren’t connected with the water, your time out in the surf is going to be wet, dismal, and disappointing. I’ve seen folks at the beach: all bitchy and grouchy, snarling glares (snargloidals) at everything, the sand, the sun, the water, me. What a shame…for them. There is a whole vibe and energy at the beach. It cleanses your etheric body, makes you vibrant, and is healing for all manner of ills. Angels gather in groups more at the beach than at any place on the planet. FYI. Ask why that is…see what answers you get.
Unlike other sports, there is a sense of camaraderie among surfers. Waves and smiles to strangers. Sounds of “oh no!” as a wall of water descends on you while you are still paddling out to the lineup. And “yeehaa!” my favorite, as you catch that perfect wave and everything you do, just works out. That’s so cool. Other than a board (and a wetsuit if it’s chilly out,) it’s just you and the waves.
Meet some very nice souls on the beach. There for the same reasons you are, making you instantly simpatico with them. Try getting that at any ballpark…good luck.
All surfers are bums and potheads? Like portrayed in the popular culture? Get real. How about doctors, dentists, cops, electricians, writers, actors, students, FEDs, soccer moms, architects, plumbers, construction workers, bellhops, etc, etc, etc.
Lots of beauty at the beach. Everywhere you look.
Sitting out past the breakers, bobbing in the swells as they come through to the point: just you, the sky, the ocean, the clean air, the pelicans, the dolphins, the whales…sigh. Then you glance over and see the other guy or gal, doing the exact same thing. Just sitting there, taking it all in, getting connected. I’ve been on ships, boats, and all manner of watercraft and it doesn’t provide the same thing at all. Your body is in the water. With it. One with it. Your upper body is in the air. In it. One with it. Your gaze is on the horizon, the city? Gone. Or at Ventura, you are looking at sandy bluffs and the occasional train zipping by where the water meets the sand and the mountains meet the shore.
The beaming joy of every surfer as they walk in from the surf, board under their arm. They radiate sheer glow and stoke. Collapse on the sand. Smiles. Serenity. Home.
The beach to us is about going to church. It’s a grand and ever wonderful cathedral of purity and love. Better than any building, I can tell you.
Do you have to be a surfer to experience any of this? Hardly. It’s just a deeper connection with something that is always there for anyone, should they avail themselves of the experience. Sure, you can get killed out there. Your first foray into the surf can be intimidating, as so many people who just sit on the beach have told me. “I’m afraid of the water, the ocean, sharks, whatever.” Get over your fears and find a whole new world out there, right next to and part of, the world you have. If you can. While you can.
BTW, sharks rarely come into the breakers area of the ocean. They prefer it deeper, where all the food they like is. It has happened and the last time someone was killed by shark out here was in 1989. So maybe we are due…
Then it’s the end of the day…the sun is beaming its light over the water, making a perfect highway of shimmering light right up to its blessing warmth over the water. Leading all to home. Reminding all of what matters. The gulls are flying about. The surf is quieter now as it always seems to be as dusk descends. Always the same vibe. Peace and contentment. Angels gather. One or two at time, then in multitudes. Finally, the sun sets and all head home, delirious with joy, feeling happily tired, complete, and whole.
Don Bradley Sept 2008
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